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July 4, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Royal School of Needlework – Part Three

It is more than time to return to my account of being a student in the 1950s at the Royal School of Needlework. Part Two is dated March 25, 2013 and available for you to establish continuity.

On Friday, April 6, 1951, The Times Educational Supplement published a full page article called the Tradition of “Opus Anglicanum”. After a brief historical review, the article continues to describe the syllabus and experience of the course and then mentions employment opportunities. A press photographer took some photos and three were published. This first photo was not one of those published but is the only one that I have in my possession. Efforts to obtain better quality prints of the others have been unsuccessful so we have done the best we could with a scan of a 60 year old newspaper page.

Royal School of Needlework

Royal School of Needlework

This first photo was staged and is thus not a realistic scene. For instance, we did not sit in a row. The first stitcher on the right and the furthest stitcher were older and had started a few months before the other three of us. This is evident in that they are working on the third sampler which was Crewel work. The nearer of the two young ladies stitching their second sampler is Gillian Cox and to her right is Carmel Leibster. The student stitching the sampler loose in her hand is me. And no, I do not recognize myself either! Both Gillian and Carmel are stitching on their own frames while I was given the work of an unidentified student to give the photos more variety. In reality, I was at that time stitching the same sampler as Gillian and Carmel. And we all hated that tedious piece of applique on which we learned to stitch accurately and with totally even spacing. And we also learned to stitch fast. If you watch the videos made by Erica Wilson, you will see how quickly she works. Note that our trestles (or easels) are ancient. We stitched with our work covered (like a surgeon) and not uncovered as is indicated. Carmel’s protective cloths are folded and hanging on her trestle. Gillian has hers protecting the edge closest to her which is the part most likely to be snagged by leaning on it. Old white cotton sheeting is ideal for protection cloths. It does not need to have finished edges but it is desirable to launder them occasionally. Gillian now lives in the eastern USA, I am in Canada while Carmel remained in London. The parquet floor and panelled wall are original but the hot water radiator is probably a more recent addition as the house was built in the 1850s.

Royal School of Needlework Classroom

Royal School of Needlework Classroom

This is a general view of the classroom. Note that the students are sitting in a random manner, the normal layout. What is not normal and staged for the photographer is that the frames are uncovered. The student on the left is stitching on her goldwork sampler. Note how much larger is the frame and fabric when compared with our beginner samplers. Many types of embroidery can be rolled around the roller bar using extra fabric for padding and protection. Because of the padding within the motives and the desirability of not disturbing the gold thread in any way it is not possible to do this with goldwork hence the frame gets larger and larger.

Royal School of Needlework Student Working

Royal School of Needlework Student Working

A closer view of the student working on her goldwork sampler. All students first stitched the three emblems at the top – a pomegranate, crown and fleur de lys. The remaining three to six items on the sampler were our own design. This was a third year project and demanded a lot of time and skill to complete the technically demanding designs that we were inspired to create. Note the size of the frame and fabric when compared with our beginner samplers. She would have stitched the upper three motives with the extra fabric rolled onto the roller bar at the base of project. Having completed these, the fabric would have been unrolled giving access to the middle of the design. When that was completed she would have unrolled the rest of the design. Many types of completed embroidery can be rolled around the roller bar using extra fabric (such as sheeting) for padding and protection. It is not possible to do this with goldwork hence the frame gets larger and larger. Notice, too, that she has two spools of gold thread. Japanese gold is couched down in pairs. Having two spools means that the twist on both threads is the same allowing the gold thread to reflect light in the same way. As goldwork is all about light reflection this is the correct way to do this and it does make a difference to the finished piece. It would appear that she has included some silk shading in this dramatic and ambitious piece. I wish I knew her name.

Goldwork or Metal Thread Embroidery as it is often called, is a wonderful medium in which to work and I am glad that I had just enough time to include this in my studies. I do have my sampler but it is simple compared with the one in this photograph. I had three weeks to complete the whole thing before leaving to move on to college. It had to be simple and manageable in terms of the number of stitches needed. I love teaching goldwork though my students are encouraged to choose designs that are more contemporary than traditional. Even so, we all continue to use the techniques and skills that have been used since medieval times and even before. Goldwork had reached a high standard of technical expertise several centuries ago as is evident in Opus Anglicanum found in the Syon Cope and other works located in such places as Durham Cathedral and museums.

Royal School of Needlework Teacher and Student

Royal School of Needlework Teacher and Student

Our principal and senior teacher was Marguerite Randell. She is indicating a detail to the student who is one of our two older stitchers. Note that the protection cloths are hanging on her trestle and that she is stitching with one hand on the top surface and one underneath. Stitching this way is how the professionals do it and it helps with speed and accomplishing the project in a cost effective manner.

Enjoy a post from the past

  • Beginners Gold Work Class
    First, an apology. I have not forgotten about this blog but have been busy working on my eBook on Summer …

Marguerite Randell (1881 – 1955) was a superb teacher. She wrote three very detailed books on stitching: Simple Embroidery, More Simple Embroidery and Plain Sewing. All were published by Cassell and Company, Limited. These small, thin books contain a mass of information with detailed and accurate diagrams. I recommend them to serious stitchers for whom accurate information is more important than beautiful colour photography. I have originals but they have been reprinted and are available through AbeBooks.com. 1952 was her last year of teaching after which she worked in the workroom on commission pieces. She seemed very elderly to us young ones and she certainly did work long after normal retirement age. She was a gentle and gracious lady who knew exactly how to do everything. Erica Wilson acknowledged her as “my first teacher, who knew more about needlework than anyone I’ve ever known – the late Marguerite Randell”.

Both Gillian Cox and myself echo this sentiment wholeheartedly.

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May 5, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Creative Use of Stitches: Part 4, completed

Completed Sampler

Completed Sampler

Here is the completed sampler. It is stretched onto a wooden frame and backed with white felt. A pocket for provenance papers is stitched onto the backing. The completed sampler is large, 31″ x 19 “, and that is big. Although I do not think it is beautiful, it does what was intended; it is a sampler of the basic stitches of embroidery and their variations. I will put it away for six months and my eyes will then see it fresh and objectivity becomes possible.
The background details were fun to conceive and stitch. They were essential to bring cohesion to these wildly different siblings.

Here is a Whipped Spider Wheel. The spokes were lengthened with Straight Stitches which also held the cording in place. Then add some beads.

Whipped Spider Wheel

Whipped Spider Wheel

Cabled Stem Stitch

Cabled Stem Stitch

Cabled Stem Stitch: I like it better than Cable Chain.

Lovers Knot

Lovers Knot

A Lovers’ Knot!

Coral Stitch and Chain Stitch

Coral Stitch and Chain Stitch

Single Coral Stitch and Chain Stitch, both with two threads in the needle. Coral Stitch is used to couch a circle of sampler fabric and then add some really large French Knots. That used up all of that wool or else I would have used it again elsewhere. It is also included in the Running Stitch sample.

Enjoy a post from the past

  • From Clogs to Education, by Janet Sunderani
    And the clogs? Well, my father had an expression – From Clogs to Clogs in Three Generations. It was a …

Whenever we are being creative, our imagination and ability take a step forward on the road to creativity. It is a road without end but, for all of us, it does have a sharply defined beginning. For a student working on a project such as this, all will create differently even though the stitches are the same. Their experience comes together with their taste, colour choice and available materials. The world of textile creation is a wonderful one with unending space for creation and with room for everyone no matter where they are on their journey. The next time I teach this project, it is inevitable that all the students, myself included, will produce a totally different creation than anything produced now.

I hope you have enjoyed visiting this project. Next, I will post samplers from my students.

And that, said Pooh, is that.

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May 3, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Creative Use of Stitches: Part 3

After Cross Stitch we moved on to Chain Stitch, another rigid example. I find that stitchers do not like stitching Squared Chain Stitch finding it difficult to manage the sequencing. I was determined to include it so they would have an example of it in their sample books.

Squared Chain Stitch

Squared Chain Stitch

The next two small samples are of Trellis Work. A favourite in Jacobean stitching, it is fun to stitch and dramatic in its impact. I had designed and drafted the first one but had never tried it out in thread. It was a nuisance but interesting to stitch. The density of the darker threads made it look heavy but the scattering of beads lightened it up. I will certainly use this variation again.

The second Trellis Work was also an experiment. I added a thread of glitter to the framework lines and purposely used Detached Chain Stitch as I had not used it elsewhere. Notice that the diamonds and Chain Stitches become smaller towards the outside of the circle.

Enjoy a post from the past

  • Burden Stitch – Part Two: a Tutorial
    If you are using Burden Stitch as part of a design, you will have already decided on how you plan …

All the stitchers had a work book. I asked them to bring a print of each of their samples for everyone in the class. On the reverse side of the print the relevant information was printed including the featured stitch, fabric, threads and the stitcher’s name and contact information. The simplest way to produce prints is to place the sampler face down on a scanner as you would to copy text. Place a medium heavy book on the wrong side of the fabric. Having obtained one satisfactory image, use it to print as many copies as you wish. In this way, all participants have a rich variety of ideas in their workbooks.

Trellis Work

Trellis Work

Detached Chain Stitch

Detached Chain Stitch

The final blog on this project will be about the stitches that connect and integrate these samplers.

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April 30, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Creative Use of Stitches: Part 2

This lesson featured Cretan Stitch and Buttonhole Stitch. For me, these two stitches did not blend well together and, next time, I will combine Cretan with the other leaf stitches.

Cretan Stitch

Cretan Stitch

Cretan is one of my all time favourite stitches. It can be so fluid and adaptable. Try listening to or singing the waltz ‘Die Fledermaus’ by Strauss to get the flowing and moving inspiration started. I have renamed this way of stitching it, the Cretan Waltz. The pink and mauve areas are silk rovings needle felted in position while the more solid mauve/purple areas are dyed dryer sheet. The bits of gold and copper are chocolate wrap.

Buttonhole Stitch is much more rigid. It can flow and move though I have not done that on this sampler. It does adapt well for couching. The coiled metallic cord is held in place with straight stitches.

Enjoy a post from the past

  • Hot News! Spring and Summer Garden Flowers.
    Lilian Henrikson, who created and stitched A Garden of Spring and Summer Flowers, posted the blog from this site to …

The third sampler in this edition is Cross Stitch with added beads. I used beads in small amounts here and there to add interest and some sparkle. The light mauve velvet background absorbed colour and did not give contrasts in texture or colour their due respect.

Buttonhole Stitch

Buttonhole Stitch

Cross Stitch

Cross Stitch

The next entry will feature Chain Stitch and Trellis Work.

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April 29, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Creative Use of Stitches: Part 1

I have just finished teaching a class on the Creative Use of Stitches and I promised to share the results with you. The students are all good and enthusiastic textile artists using mostly machine stitching. They wished to know basic hand embroidery stitches and their variations. They did wonderfully well and produced a wide diversity of creative results. I will be featuring their work, with their permission, but will share my own first.

Six classes each featured one or more stitches. I chose to use them for individual samples which meant that, at the conclusion, I had eight samples of totally different size and expression though the colour range was congruent. What to do with them? Some light mauve velvet seemed to be a unifying possibility.

Stitching Class Trial Layout

Stitching Class Trial Layout

This is the trial layout. Completed size is 31″ x 19″. And that is large! I had to mount it on my standing frame for assembly and stitching the final stages.

Our first lesson was Running Stitch and its many variations (bottom left). I included French Knots to give the students a nonlinear stitch to include. The Laid Work was added later and is shaded. The fabric for the samplers is dressmakers weight linen backed with an open weave fabric of undetermined fibre.

Threads are mostly DMC Perle 5, DMC Floss and various oddments of thread and wool. Better fabrics such as linen are not easily available in this area and backing fabric such as factory cotton has suddenly become scarce. DMC Floss is available as well as a limited range of DMC Perle. I had to supplement the colour range by ordering from the USA. Rejoice, all you fortunate stitchers who are able to access other and more interesting threads.

Running Stitch

Running Stitch

Enjoy a post from the past

  • Post Covid19. RSN’s 150th Anniversary is this year.
    Covid19 is not a subject to joke upon.  Every one, everywhere, is hoping that it is history but we still …

Next was Stem Stitch and its variations. There are fewer variations though this stitch does create beautiful curves and adapts well for closely packed areas. We included Sorbello Stitch which is great for adding texture and interest. The bright turquoise metallic cord is a crafting item useful in this piece because of its colour and its brightness. Couching was one of the included stitches. Much of the time, I pierced the cord with a fine needle and stitched with a cotton dressmaking thread that matched the background. It adapted nicely to curves and loops. In some places, I did more interesting stitches which you will see in following blogs.

Stem Stitch

Stem Stitch

The next few blogs will continue the analysis of this project and will feature work done my students.

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February 1, 2013 by Ann Bernard

Satin Stitch – Padded, Shaded and Stitch Rotated

As I wished to include all the above features in this Tutorial, my design motif is unbalanced right and left sides. It is 3″ across and 1/2″ wide. This width is about as long as it is feasible to make Satin Stitches without them becoming unstable. 1/8″ is about the narrowest or else it is too pokey.

The fabric I used is 28 count cotton Monaco by Charlescraft. The higher the thread count the easier it is to work this stitch and the result is better, too. I mounted it on a Grip-n-Stitch frame by Fabric Flair and am reviewing this new type of frame in a separate entry. It is essential that the fabric be really taut and mounted grain perfect when undertaking Satin Stitch.

Satin Stitch - Drawing The Shape

1. Draw the shape on the linen, in this case it is cotton, using a pen that will make a very fine line.

2. I used DMC Floss and chose a range of thread colours that were close in shade. It is much harder to shade when there is a marked difference between the threads.

If the final layer of Satin Stitch is to be a silk thread, I would still use DMC Floss for padding for reasons of economy.

Enjoy a post from the past

  • Royal School of Needlework – Part 5: Extended
    The earlier RSN post triggered many responses and more information which I am delighted to share with you. Marion Scoular, …

Preparation is vitally important
Unless this is perfect, the appearance of your final stage of Satin Stitching will not turn out as you had hoped. Do not short change yourself on this.

Satin Stitch - Preparation

3. Using three threads of the floss, split stitch all round the motif on the marked line. As Mary Corbet has said, using two threads means that they divide when split stitched instead of behaving as split stitching. These stitches must be small i.e. 1/4″ in length. Start and finish threads within the body of the motif. This outline needs to be as solid and immovable as the Great Wall of China. After just a few stitches, test this by going picky, picky with a finger nail to see that the line is solid and immovable. Reduce your stitch size if there is any give in this line of stitching.

4. Padding
All Satin Stitched projects need at least one layer of padding which is usually worked in long Split Stitches within the shape. This padding should cover all the space within the the outline. It will support the Satin Stitches and prevents them from collapsing into the middle of space. Totally unpadded Satin Stitch has a ‘hollow’ look to it.

Satin Stitch - Padding

Padded Satin Stitch has a raised look and needs three or more layers of padding stitches.
Use six strands of Floss for this. The first line is lengthwise. Note that it does not extend to the outline leaving a space. The second line is stitched crosswise. I used the palest of the colours so that this would be visible for you. Normally, I would use the same colour as the other layers. The third layer is also lengthwise and fills the entire space within the outline. Take the shortest route between padding stitches so that the reverse side does not also become padded,

Organize the padding layers so that the final one lies in the opposite direction to the Satin Stitches.

Satin Stitch - Layers #1

Satin Stitch – Layers #1

Satin Stitch - Layers #2

Satin Stitch – Layers #2

Satin Stitch - Layers #3

Satin Stitch – Layers #3

5. Satin Stitching
Make a decision on which edge of your stitched shape will be more noticeable. This is usually the outer edge of the petal of a flower or the edge which is better lit for the viewer. This is the dominant edge and the one that the needle goes down through the fabric.

The needle will come up on the less visibly noticeable edge which is usually towards the centre of the flower. Use one strand of thread only.

Satin Stitch - Dominant Edge

This may seem like an unnecessary amount of stitching but is quicker in the long term.
Two threads, or even three threads will twist and will not give attractive or professional results.

Try stitching with two threads just for the experience. You will find that you will have to separate those threads every stitch and it will make it slow. Slow and frustrating, actually.
One thread is the quick and easy way to go.

Also use the smallest needle you can manage to thread such as a Crewel size 9 or 10. This will help the ease and accuracy of the stitching though some Crewel 9 or 10 can be hard to thread. Bohin needles do not have this problem. The eyes are properly formed and much easier to thread.

Start with a knot (or not) and make a small waste stitch within the body of the padding.

In the centre of the motif bring the needle to the front on the less dominant side of the motif. Take it down to the back on the dominant side of the motif.

This is when your preparation will pay you dividends in ease of stitching and results.
Let the needle find the spot that is closest to that Great Wall of China and make sure that it goes through the fabric absolutely vertically.

And this, my fellow stitchers, is the secret to perfect Satin Stitch. Excellent preparation, stitch with one thread only and make sure that your needle entry and exit is always vertical.

If it is a straight shape, just continue until you reach the other end.

Shading
Shading is a question of getting organized as you move from one shade to the next. Thread another Crewel 9 or 10 needle with one thread of the next colour. Look at the photos to see how the colour change is achieved.
One stitch on the new colour, three of the old,
two stitches of the new, three of the old,
two stitches of the new, two of the old,
three stitches of the new, one of the old,
and then you will likely be ready to use all of the new colour.
These ratios are changeable as appropriate for your project.

Satin Stitch - Shading

Continue stitching maintaining the vertical and parallel orientation to the stitching, changing colours to achieve the shading you wish until you reach the end or the pointed end of the motif. I seem to have lost some of that perfect angling but you will not do that I am sure.

6. Points
If possible, organize your design motif and stitching plan so that the stitches at the point retain their vertical orientation. This creates a far more satisfactory result than trying to place tiny and short stitches across the point. There is nothing like a photo enlargement to show imperfections.

7. Rotating Satin Stitching
That means stitch direction which follows the curve of the motif. As you can see, in this shape, if the stitches remained vertical and parallel, they would become rather longer than the practical maximum of approximately 1/2″. However, the stitches are remaining at right angles to the outer edge of the motif. The dominant outer curve is also considerable longer than the inner curve.

Satin Stitch - Rotating Satin Stitching

Satin Stitch – Rotating Satin Stitching

Here is how
Watch the shape and make an extra stitch every so often so that there are more stitches going down into the fabric on the outer edge than there are on the inner curve. Come up through the padding about halfway across the width of the motif and then go down on the outside edge as usual. The next stitch will be a normal stitch that covers the whole width of the motif. This second stitch will cover the start of the shorter stitch making it undetectable. That half way point can instead be 1/3 or 2/3 of the way across the width. This depends on the shape and curve of the motif.

Watch the shape and the stitch angles and add these extra stitches as needed but always have about three normal stitches between the shortened ones. I apologize for missing taking a photos of this and I am not computer literate enough to add an arrow as an indicator. I am also regretful that the photos are dark on one side.

The point at this end had to be stitched across with several really tiny stitches. I would have been wiser to continue the shape of this half of the motif in a gentle curve to the right which would then have let me finish it with longer stitches like the other end of the motif.

Satin Stitch - Pattern Finished

Leaf Shape with one layer of padding

This leaf is stitched in Perle 5.

1. Plan the shape and the stitch direction making sure that you will be able to complete both the rounded end and the point easily.
2. Split stitch on the line around the leaf using one thread of Perle 5 and ensuring that this line is solid and immovable (Great Wall of China). Use an appropriate sized Crewel needle which is the thinnest you are able to thread.
3. Using two threads of Perle 5, place long split stitches in the opposite direction to the planned Satin Stitch and fill the entire space within the leaf.

Satin Stitch - Leaf Planning

Satin Stitch – Leaf Planning

4. Decide on the designated primary and more visible edge of the leaf and arrange that your needle enter the fabric on that edge and come up through the fabric on the secondary edge. Remember to let the needle find the spot closest to the split stitch edging and that the needle enters and leaves the fabric at exact right angles to the fabric.

Start Satin Stitching in the centre and widest part of the leaf shape placing the stitches at right angles to the padding stitches. This is as you planned in the diagram.
Work towards the base of the leaf first making sure that the final stitch that completes the curve is short in length. This final stitch supports the previous longer one and prevents it ‘falling off the curve’.

Satin Stitch - Falling Off The Curve

Satin Stitch – Falling Off The Curve

5. Continue vertically placed Satin Stitching until you reach the pointed tip. Place the final shortish stitch so that it forms the point. Take the needle down very close the the previous stitch so that this last entry point is not visible.

Satin Stitch - Last Entry Point

Satin Stitch – Last Entry Point

Padded Satin Stitch Small Circle
6. For a small shape, use three threads of DMC Floss to split stitch the outer line.
Use six threads of Floss to form a Double Cross Stitch or Quadruple Cross for the padding.

7. It is your choice to Satin Stitch with one thread of either DMC Floss or Perle 5.
Some circles, such as berries, become too small for the Perle 5 thread. Try Perle 8.

My circle is definitely not round. If you wish for an exact circle, use a template as suggested by Mary Corbet.

Satin Stitch - Circle

This completes this Tutorial.

Hope that you will enjoy and have success with Padded Satin Stitch.

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